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What to Eat: Marvesta Shrimp
Farm-Raised. Schwarzenegger-Sized.
Even Bigger on Flavor and Totally
Buzzworthy.
“We diagnosed an opportunity,” explained Scott Fritze. Guy Furman nodded. The opportunity
happened to be lying flat in Andy Hanzlik’s hand. It was an exquisite, pearl-gray translucent shrimp about seven inches
long, from full head to tail. The word “shrimp” didn’t fit somehow.
And
the opportunity that Marvesta Shrimp diagnosed (and cracked) was how to
deliver fresh-caught, colossal, heads-on shrimp within 24 hours to the
finest restaurants in the area, 365 days a year.
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| Andy Hanzlik, Guy Furman, Scott Fritze |
Here’s
how they did it: with a first-of-its-kind shrimp farm in an industrial
park in Hurlock, on Maryland’s Eastern Shore. Marvesta has five 100,000
gallon saltwater tanks, from which they can grow and harvest
shrimp year-round — versus outdoor pond farms, or shrimpers who catch
in the Gulf and freeze immediately. At Marvesta, they’ve conquered the
technology (no mean feat) and are on their way to their first
expansion. Going from five tanks to 24 could happen as soon as January.
Not to mention
these are the Schwarzeneggers of shrimp for cooks, only a little
sweeter. They’re sashimi quality. Rich and robust. Fed a soy-based
protein feed and have nothing to do but exercise and loll around in
quality-tested water for virtually all of their little lives.
Unhampered by predators (until us, that is.)
A little background.
Four
years ago, Scott Fritze, Andy Hanzlik and Guy Furman, friends
from college and now business partners, broke ground their first
covered tank. After much experimenting, and a few heartbreaks, they’ve
got the system down. It’s replicable, to the point where they now are
poised to expand. Fortunately – because the demand continues to
outstrip supply.
What’s the attraction? Fresh…not flash frozen…heads-on supersized shrimp is hard to find. In the
Gulf, say the Marvesta guys, people boat up to the shrimpboats to purchase the shellfish before they’re prepped and
frozen; they’re that desirable. In fact, when word gor around about the Marvesta project, local chefs were asking the
guys when they’d be able to deliver long before the first shrimp were ready.
Even now, Marvesta has to slowly grow its list, maintaining relationships with restaurants first. And
the chefs are enamored as well. On October 10th, in an event at the (James) Beard House in New York featuring “D.C.
All-Star” chefs, Marvesta Shrimp was the first dish on the dinner menu, as in “Marvesta Shrimp Tartare with Paddlefish
Caviar, Avocado Salad, Egg Confetti, and Lemon Oil.”
Shrimp
are interesting buggers to watch in the water.
They use their many legs to “run”
through the water; you wouldn’t really call it swimming, per se. And they’re large – the size of small fish.
With their translucent color, they don’t stand out, which is probably one of their few defense mechanisms. Shrimp have
to be one of the most “exist purely to be consumed” species there are. They also know to hang out at the feeder.
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| Newly arrived shrimp from the hatchery |
There are two pools in each greenhouse. The baby pool, that houses shrimp shipped in from hatcheries in
Florida, that arrive when they’re about ten days old. And the main pool, where they’re moved one or two months
later, where they’ll spend the next 4 to 6 months. All
the stock is weighed and counted during moves and sales; it’s the only
way to track inventory. Feed is adjusted daily. As soon as the shrimp
have reached 21-25 count (or number of shrimp per pound), partial
harvesting can begin, but the demand is naturally for the largest sizes
possible. Colossal shrimp run 12 to 15 count.
However,
one doesn’t watch for long. It’s truly hot in here. And humid. So much so that you’re thankful to step back
into the high-eighties outdoor weather with some air circulation. Shrimp like 83º to 86º degree weather. It’s
trickier in the winter, and more expensive, of course, to keep the water warm.
But the whole concept of the production is to be environmentally responsible and sustainable. Initially
when the tanks are filled, saltwater is imported, but there’s little waste after that; the shrimp take care of it. The
feed is organic, there are no antibiotics. Organic certification is underway, so far, no one’s set a precedent for it.
Info for foodies.
There are two ways to get your
hands on marvelous Marvesta. One, find a restaurant where it’s served, including
- Out
of the Fire, Easton
- Restaurant Local, Easton
- The Inn at Easton
- Metropolitan in Annapolis
- Brooks Tavern in Chestertown
- (More
restaurants in Baltimore and D.C. will be featuring it next summer.)
Two, hit their website.
Orders will be shipped out in 24 hours. You might very well hit a sold-out sign, but they’ll let you know when they’re
shipping again. The guys tell us that more shrimp should be available in November/December in time for holiday cooking.
What should you know about cooking Marvesta shrimp? A couple of things: First, they recommend shelling the tail of the shrimp and leaving the heads on for cooking. That’s where the
flavor is. Second, cook them quickly. Guy,
the only member who will confess to cooking, said he discovered from
the chefs that he’d been doing it wrong all along by steaming. They
recommend sautéing in just a little good oil for 30 to 45 seconds a
side. Scott said that their high-quality made them especially good for ceviche.
And how do they taste? Lovely! We left with 1.5 pounds that day – lucky us! – and learned
both about the heads-on cooking and about the fast cooking. We had them simply sauteed with an herb and shallot sauce. This week, we also ordered the small plate of Marvesta Shrimp at Brooks Tavern in Chestertown. It was served on a
succotash of corn and fresh limas in a light cream tomato sauce. Heavenly. Marvesta
Shrimp
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| Marvesta Shrimp and Fresh Succotash at Brooks Tavern |
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